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Hirsch Zöbing Kamptal Riesling 2013

Vinous 91pts:

A gorgeous nose evokes saffron, moss, iris and lily-of-the-valley along with anticipations of the white peach and apple that then dominate a slightly waxy, palpably dense yet buoyant palate. Orange rind accents and the persistence of inner-mouth floral perfume add appeal, leading to a finish of infectious juiciness, delightful levity (at well under 12% alcohol) and seeming suffusion of crushed stone. Most of the truly astonishing values from this vintage involve Grüner Veltliner, but here’s a Riesling whose price/quality rapport wows. What’s more, its energetically interactive and refreshing appeal had not dimmed in the least on the occasion of a September 2015 re-tasting.

From the importer:

Adorable, winsome and deliciously mineral. It has an allusive attack but a firm direct finale. Rockpowder texture and a fragrance reeking of irises.

Regarded as one of the young, leading winemakers in Austria, Johannes Hirsch combines the quality of his renowned vineyards, dedication to viticulture and precise winemaking to craft wines of the highest class. Johannes works exclusively with Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, farms his vineyards sustainably and biodynamically and is certified by RESPEKT! Natural efforts have been made to ensure physiologically ripe grapes including high density planting (5,500 vines per hectare), low trellising, canopy management and handpicking. His father began using manure for compost over 30 years ago by trading hay from Hirsch’s agricultural fields to a friend Robert Paget in the neighboring village. Paget is a cheesemaker and his goats and water buffalo eat the hay and their manure is transported back to Hirsch for compost to fertilize Johannes’ vineyards.

The winemaking process is marked by ambient yeast fermentations, whole cluster pressing, slow vinification, late bottling and release of the wines upon appropriate maturation. In 2003, Hirsch was notably the first producer to bottle all level of his wines in Stelvin closure. A five-year study has just been completed by Austrian wine-magazine Vinaria validating the efforts surrounding Stelvin closures. Johannes Hirsch is one of the most innovative and renowned winemakers in Austria and was name “Winemaker of the Year” by Falstaff Magazine in 2011.

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